In seventh grade, I received some distressing news: There would be no gym class offered that spring. Not that I liked gym class—quite the opposite—but by participating in it, I had thus far been able to avoid playing an actual sport, the kind that would force me to compete against complete strangers for the meager reward of knowing I’d done my best. My next best option, I decided, was a new offering called “instructional tennis.” I signed up, my displeasure at the idea of running around outside lessened by the fact that I’d have an excuse to buy the extremely cool white terrycloth visor I’d recently spotted at Gap Kids.
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Long before coquette-core took over TikTok, a 16-year-old Chris Evert made her U.S. Open debut in 1971 in an angelic lace dress and hair ribbon.
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Arthur Ashe, a.k.a. the chicest person to ever set foot on a tennis court, competes—in aviators, of course—at the 1978 U.S. Open.
Focus on Sport/Getty ImagesTo my surprise, I didn’t completely hate it—and, more importantly, realized that tennis could be the gateway to an entirely new wardrobe. When the season ended, I began taking weekly lessons at our club with an endlessly patient pro named Mariska; after a few years spent learning the intricacies of scoring and how not to topple over every time I hit the ball, I decided to put my hard-earned skills to use by joining the school tennis team.
Then, tragedy struck: Immediately following my first match, the coach pulled me aside to suggest that I might be better suited to a position as team manager. With my head hung low, I returned to gym class, my tennis career cut short by the inconvenient necessity of being able to actually play tennis.
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Sure, Yannick Noah and Björn Borg look absolutely flawless in short-shorts and track jackets at the 1982 Monte Carlo Open, but did you see the fit on that ball boy?
Professional Sport/Popperfoto via Getty ImagesMy sartorial interest in tennis, however, continued unabated. I filled my teenage closet with pleated white skirts, amassed a sizable Lacoste collection, and wore a racquet-embroidered Juicy Couture skirt and matching t-shirt with almost zero irony. Today, despite having only a vague familiarity with the current state of tennis, I can spend hours scrolling through photos of its Golden Age stars (Tracy Austin’s dresses! Chris Evert’s bows! Arthur Ashe’s aviators!) and find the U.S. Open to be infinitely more enjoyable than any other sporting event. I haven’t stopped thinking about Challengers‘ pitch-perfect Jonathan Anderson–designed costumes since I saw it in theaters (twice!), and while on a recent trip to Newport, paid a visit to the International Tennis Hall of Fame for purely aesthetic reasons.
So, like any good sports story about overcoming adversity, mine ends with an important moral: When at first you don’t succeed, just throw in the towel—and keep the outfits.
Get the Look
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US Open Cotton Cable-Knit Cardigan by POLO Ralph Lauren
I wouldn’t say that the best thing about tennis tournaments are the merch, but I wouldn’t not say it, either. (Also: bring back the tennis cardigan!)
$228, ralphlauren.com
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Dr. Johnson Tennis Umpire Chair by McKinnon and Harris
Why exert yourself when you can watch the action from your very own umpire’s chair? (It’s named after tennis coach Dr. Robert Walter “Whirlwind” Johnson, by the way.)
From $25,930, mckinnonharris.com
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Rolex Datejust 36 in Oystersteel and white gold
Icons only. (And by “icons” we mean Arthur Ashe, Chris Evert, Roger Federer, Coco Gauff…)
$9,050, rolex.com
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The Racquet Oxford by Palmes x Sperry
Because everyone needs a pair of white canvas trainers. (Or a dozen.)
$100, palmes.co
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Negril Tennis Club Tote by Brother Vellies
Would it be weird to carry this around even if you didn’t play tennis? Asking for a friend.
$1,095, brothervellies.com
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Antique Stripe Bow Barrette by Bode
$295, bode.com
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18k Yellow Gold Deuce Court Ceramic Diamond Tennis Bracelet by Minty
Another reason to get into tennis? The bracelets, obviously.
$6,900, modaoperandi.com
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Wilson Clash Roland Garros 2024 Tennis Racquet
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Legacy Ball Boy Scented Candle by Prince x Vacation
What does a “ball boy” candle smell like, you ask? Like “freshly uncanned tennis balls,” sunscreen, sweatbands, and cucumber sandwiches, of course.
$42, vacation.inc
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Stahl S Sunglasses by Mr. Leight
The true mark of a tennis great? Pulling off a pair of aviators on the court.
$590, garrettleight.com
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Women’s Ultra Dry Tennis Dress & by Lacoste
It doesn’t get much more classic than a pleated white dress.
$119, lacoste.com
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Headband in Retro White by FIla
For channeling your inner Björn Borg (or Richie Tenenbaum).
$17, goldenageoftennis.com
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GS08 Cotton Socks by Merz B. Schwanen
Have you heard? No-shows are out, crew socks are in.
$31, merzbschwanen.com
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Quiet Please Hat by RACQUET MAGAZINE
Who doesn’t love a sporting event where you’re liable to get shushed?
$35, shop.racquetmag.com
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1989 Roland Garros Tennis Tournament Poster
Unsurprisingly, the French Open has the coolest posters.
$681, 1stdibs.com
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Arthur Ashe Shorts by rowing blazers
The shorter the shorts, the better the player.
$68, rowingblazers.com
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